So you have just brought your new guinea pig home from the shelter or pet shop. And now, you're not entirely sure what to do. Let us help you to get off to a great start with this quick-start guinea pig owners ' guide.
First of all, if you have just come back from the shelter or pet store with just a single pig, we highly recommend that you turn around and go back. Guinea pigs are social creatures and tend to do better when there are at least a couple pigs living together. Two females are a good mixture. Two males can live together in peace as long as they've been raised together. And while it's feasible to introduce two grown males to one another, it does require patience and care. A male and a female are the absolute best combination, but naturally one of them needs to be "fixed" in order to avoid a future in-cage population explosion.
Your first task is to select a cage. Petshop cages have a tendency to be too small to adequately house a single pig "not to mention multiple pigs. Use the following recommendations when choosing guinea pigs cages:
- One guinea pig: 6-7 sq. Ft.
- Two guinea pigs: 7.5 sq. Ft.
- Three guinea pigs: 10.5 sq. Ft.
If you can't find one big enough at the petshop, you can always build your own cage or buy one online from a reputable cage seller. Recently, C&C (Cubes and Coroplast) cages have become fairly popular because they provide a lot of cage for the money. Take a look at the resource box and the end of this article for links to some online C&C guinea pig cage stores.
Place a nest box, a bit of PVC pipe or other enclosure inside the cage. Pigs like to hide out in cozy tiny places and providing a hiding place inside the cage will make your pigs feel happier and safer.
Never place your pigs in an aquarium. Yes, a few people do house their pigs in an aquarium, but it is very unhealthy for their respiratory system. Harmful ammonia gas forms as your pigs urinate inside the enclosure. In a wire cage, there is adequate ventilation to carry this gas away. However , in an aquarium the ammonia gas is contained by the glass walls causing your pigs to inhale it in twenty four seven.
Fill the cage with bedding. Avoid cedar chips and cat litter made of clay. Both are very bad for your guinea pig's respiratory system. A litter made from recycled paper works very well. Also, many of us have begun to line their cages with an absorbent material covered in fleece. The fleece allows liquids to wick thru into the absorbent layer.
Generally, Timothy hay is very good for your pigs. Your pigs can have it in nearly unlimited amounts. Alfalfa hay should be given much more carefully. Alfalfa hay is richer and will cause your pigs to gain excessive weight.
While, commercial pellets are fine for your guinea pigs nonetheless , they also are very rich and should be given in low quantities as a supplement to the primary diet which should consist typically of fresh fruits and vegetables. Only vegetables with rich dark colors should be chosen. Iceberg lettuce should never be fed to your pigs; it is generally empty calories with small nutritive value.
Remember to install a water bottle in your pig's cage. Water dishes do not work very well "as pigs have a tendency to tip them over.
Above all, don't panic. Guinea pigs are terrific animals and do not need an exorbitant amount of work. Remember that guinea pigs do better in pairs or groups than living alone. Be certain to provide adequate living space. C&C cages are a favored choice these days because they do provide a lot of room for a reasonable price. Provide a cozy hiding place for your pigs - many nest boxes are available for guinea pigs. An inverted little cardboard box works really well too (although guinea pigs like to munch so you will have to replace it frequently). Feed your pig generally deep-colored fresh vegetables and supply a water bottle. That's all that you need to get started.
First of all, if you have just come back from the shelter or pet store with just a single pig, we highly recommend that you turn around and go back. Guinea pigs are social creatures and tend to do better when there are at least a couple pigs living together. Two females are a good mixture. Two males can live together in peace as long as they've been raised together. And while it's feasible to introduce two grown males to one another, it does require patience and care. A male and a female are the absolute best combination, but naturally one of them needs to be "fixed" in order to avoid a future in-cage population explosion.
Your first task is to select a cage. Petshop cages have a tendency to be too small to adequately house a single pig "not to mention multiple pigs. Use the following recommendations when choosing guinea pigs cages:
- One guinea pig: 6-7 sq. Ft.
- Two guinea pigs: 7.5 sq. Ft.
- Three guinea pigs: 10.5 sq. Ft.
If you can't find one big enough at the petshop, you can always build your own cage or buy one online from a reputable cage seller. Recently, C&C (Cubes and Coroplast) cages have become fairly popular because they provide a lot of cage for the money. Take a look at the resource box and the end of this article for links to some online C&C guinea pig cage stores.
Place a nest box, a bit of PVC pipe or other enclosure inside the cage. Pigs like to hide out in cozy tiny places and providing a hiding place inside the cage will make your pigs feel happier and safer.
Never place your pigs in an aquarium. Yes, a few people do house their pigs in an aquarium, but it is very unhealthy for their respiratory system. Harmful ammonia gas forms as your pigs urinate inside the enclosure. In a wire cage, there is adequate ventilation to carry this gas away. However , in an aquarium the ammonia gas is contained by the glass walls causing your pigs to inhale it in twenty four seven.
Fill the cage with bedding. Avoid cedar chips and cat litter made of clay. Both are very bad for your guinea pig's respiratory system. A litter made from recycled paper works very well. Also, many of us have begun to line their cages with an absorbent material covered in fleece. The fleece allows liquids to wick thru into the absorbent layer.
Generally, Timothy hay is very good for your pigs. Your pigs can have it in nearly unlimited amounts. Alfalfa hay should be given much more carefully. Alfalfa hay is richer and will cause your pigs to gain excessive weight.
While, commercial pellets are fine for your guinea pigs nonetheless , they also are very rich and should be given in low quantities as a supplement to the primary diet which should consist typically of fresh fruits and vegetables. Only vegetables with rich dark colors should be chosen. Iceberg lettuce should never be fed to your pigs; it is generally empty calories with small nutritive value.
Remember to install a water bottle in your pig's cage. Water dishes do not work very well "as pigs have a tendency to tip them over.
Above all, don't panic. Guinea pigs are terrific animals and do not need an exorbitant amount of work. Remember that guinea pigs do better in pairs or groups than living alone. Be certain to provide adequate living space. C&C cages are a favored choice these days because they do provide a lot of room for a reasonable price. Provide a cozy hiding place for your pigs - many nest boxes are available for guinea pigs. An inverted little cardboard box works really well too (although guinea pigs like to munch so you will have to replace it frequently). Feed your pig generally deep-colored fresh vegetables and supply a water bottle. That's all that you need to get started.
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To learn more, pick up a good guinea pig reference guide - see the left sidebar on our guinea pigs cages home page for links to a couple authoritative guinea pig care guides. Also, for an unadvertized discount special on quality C&C guinea pigs cages <--CLICK on this LINK.
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